We have had several issues reported with the McLaren wheel since we have been supplying them. None of the issues seem to relate to the conversion or conversion kits, they are all faults in the wheel itself from Fanatec.
Clutch issue (No longer an issue with new wheels)
Symptoms: After about 1/2 hour of use the clutch may stop working until the wheel is reconnected.
Cause: Bad Fanatec Wheel Firmware
Fix: Early wheels were supplied with wheel firmware of V19 or lower and these suffer the issue. Later wheels have been shipping with V23 firmware and the latest Beta at time of writing is V25. If you have firmware 19 or lower you need to flash the wheel firmware. This can only be done on a CSL or CSW 2.0 or 2.5 wheel base.
Symptoms: Shifter was fine and then develops miss shifts, double shifts or in some cases just does not work at all.
Casue: In side the wheel the shifter works by pressing a plastic rod which rubber end onto a curved metal plate which when pressed down joins two contacts on the wheel PCB. The metal plate is only held in place by tape! In the wheels where a shifter stops working properly we have found that the plate has moved. We suspect that in prolonged use the plate gets warm and the tape glue gets soft, thus allowing it to move. This then means that the pressing does not always work.
Fix: You can either re-apply the metal plate by opening up the wheel and looking on the underside of the PCB or we now offer a Carbon Fibre Snap Action Shifter upgrade. Unfortuantly the upgrade is rather complex so wheels would have to be sent to us to apply it.
We are aware of an issue with the clutch on the McLaren wheel where it will stop working after about 30 minutes.
This seems to be a problem with the original wheel firmware, not the conversion kit firmware. When the wheel is flashed via a Fanatec wheel base and the latest kit firmware is used the issue seems to go away.
Here are some notes on using the new Firmware for our kits with the Fanatec McLaren Wheel from Darknao - the programmer of the firmware.
OLED & buttons are all working! I've made a few adjustments compared to the original firmware. Here they are :
Dual Clutch mode(set with the blue knob) Mode A : Just like the original firmware, this is the classic bite point mode. Press both paddle, then slowly release one of them to set the bite point. The OLED display will show you the percentage of axis that will remain when you completely release the other paddle. On the start line, fully press one paddle, and set the other on your predefined bite point. Go into 1st gear. At green light, release the fully pressed paddle, than as you go, slowly release the second one.
Mode B : This is the advanced bite point mode. This work the same way as mode A, except you can set the bite point with the funky switch encoder. Fully press the left paddle, then rotate the encoder to the left until you find your bite point.
On the start line, fully press both paddle and go into 1st gear. On green light, release the right paddle, then as you move forward, slowly release the left one.
Unfortunately, the encoder is not a true pot, and the teensy doesn't have any memory available to store this setting. The bite point calibration will have to be done every time you plug the wheel. But I guess it's still better than nothing.
Mode C & D : 2 separate mappable axis mode.
White knobs The left one work the same way as the original. As far as I know, only iRacing has a real use of them for black boxes. Check this thread to know how to map them : https://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/3603029.page#11035099 Since the output button from this knob is always on, it can be tricky to map them correctly. With this firmware, you can press the small tuning button (below the oled screen) to temporary disable the button press from the knob. Basically, to map the knob : rotate the knob to the desired position, select the black box you want to map on the config screen, then push the tuning button to validate.
The use of these knob are quite limited right now (beside for black boxes) so the right one work differently.
Rocker switches presets Each position of the right knob give you 4 different buttons on the rocker switches. That's 48 inputs. The idea behind is to use them for in-car adjustments (+/-), like ABS, TC, brake bias and so on. This allow you to map every car adjustment available on iRacing.
I've made a quick video showing how the dual clutch and those presets works, it may make things clearer, or not :p